Review: Gelupo Gelateria.

Like many pleasant surprises, sometimes great puddings sneak up on you when you least expect it. This weekend, the Man and I were heading for somewhere completely different when a detour down a Soho alley lead us straight to Gelupo – an Italian ice cream parlour in Archer Street.

Of course, being drawn to all things Pud, we had to take a look – and as soon as we stepped inside, we knew we would have to stay.

It was the flavours that won us over: a seasonal range of soft artisan gelati and sorbet, which that day spanned from Rhubarb Crumble to Rice. You heard me, Ogglers: riceflavoured ice cream.

Like all good food producers who believe in the strength of their products, the people of Gelupo let you sample everything too. So it is that I can tell you that the Rice was lovely: like a frozen rice pudding; softly sweet and excitingly textured (with grains of white rice, in case you were wondering).

Anyway, after musing over the counter for several minutes (and sampling whatever caught his fancy), the Man eventually settled on a tub containing Clementine, Blood Orange, and Sour Cherry and Ricotta. Unlike him, I’m not the world’s biggest citrus fan, so although they were tasty my spoon gravitated to the third. Again. And again. And again.

With plump whole cherries and a super creamy background of mellow ricotta, it certainly tasted as advertised. Which makes a welcome change

Still, lovely as it was, my attention was elsewhere. On this, in fact – a panettone slice, laced with Bonet gelato.

Look. At. THAT.

Looks marvellous, doesn’t it? And – like many of the flavours on their gelati menu – it’s something that I’ve never seen anywhere else. Always a plus point in my book.

I’ll have to admit though, it did take me a while to choose what I did. You see, also in the chiller cabinet were some mightily tempting pre-prepared cones – with huge scoops of ice cream, covered in thick frozen chocolate. They’d certainly give Cornettos a beasting (or smash them through the stratosphere, most likely).

Anyway, back to my beautiful panettone. Twas a grown-up’s pudding and no mistake, the Bonet a dark concoction of chocolate, rum, egg, amaretti, caramel, vanilla and espresso (hailing from the Piedmont region of Italia, no less).

How they fused it with the panettone I have no idea (another of life’s riddles, like deep-fried ice cream but more complicated). The result, however, was seamless: light – somehow unfrozen – bread, sultanas, mixed peel, and a thick gloopy chocolate filling. Awesome…

At £2.50 per slice, it was darn good value too – about the same price as a Magnum in some cinemas (and many times more delicious).

What with flavours changing regularly, I imagine I’ll have to go back soon – for reasons of research and things like that. It’s a hard task, I know… but I think I’ll probably manage.


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